Riyadh Travel Guide

Rising from the barren desert, its towering skyscrapers glittering in the fierce sun, the Saudi Arabian capital of Riyadh is one of the most splendid and affluent cities in the modern world. Situated on a plateau, Riyadh sprawls across about 600 square miles (1,600 square kilometres) of desert in the heart of the Arabian Peninsula, and is attracting more and more visitors annually.

Once a small oasis known for its date orchards (hence the origin of its name which in Arabic means 'place of gardens'), Riyadh's phenomenal growth spurt began in 1902 when the desert lord Ibn Saud took over the city, determined to turn it into the centre of his Arabic kingdom. Thirty years later it became the capital of the new country of Saudi Arabia. Fuelled by the revenue of the country's abundant oil fields, it has blossomed into an awe-inspiring modern metropolis with a population well in excess of four million.

Though modern, Riyadh remains in the heart of the Arab world, and visitors will be constantly reminded of the fact. In between the towering, futuristic buildings and glitzy shopping malls are ancient mosques and other remnants of a bygone era. Shady trees and date palms line the avenues, and camels can sometimes be seen swaying between the luxury vehicles. The city is also run on a strictly Islamic legal, moral and cultural code, and visitors should respect the rules while exploring the sights, both ancient and modern, in this fascinating city. Unfortunately, women still have restricted access to certain attractions and sites.

The original wadis (dry river beds), where wells were sunk to water the historic infant oasis settlement, have now been supplemented by numerous vast dams as well as desalinated seawater to adequately quench the thirst of this prosperous capital. Travellers often marvel at this unique urban landscape, which is certainly not short on historic interest nor modern wonder.

Things to do in Riyadh

Riyadh is predominantly considered to be a business destination. However, the city is a fascinating blend of traditional Wahhabi culture and modern development, and as such there are plenty of interesting things to see and do in Saudi Arabia's capital.

Riyadh is home to a number of historical sites, including the Al Masmak Castle, the City of Old Diriyah, and the Al Murabba'a Historical Palace. No doubt history buffs will pay each of these a visit. Although Saudi Arabia is famous for its oppressive heat, there are opportunities for outdoor activity in Riyadh, including golf, 4x4 desert trips (also known as 'dune bashing'), and football.

These are must-sees on any trip to Riyadh, but visitors should be aware that most attractions keep hours vastly different to Western businesses; they open briefly in the morning, and then again from mid-afternoon to late evening, and are closed on Fridays or Saturdays. Women may only visit during designated 'family hours' so it is best to check ahead of visiting to avoid disappointment.

Kingdom Centre photo

Kingdom Centre

The place to see and be seen in Riyadh is at the remarkable Kingdom Centre, the fifth tallest building in Saudi Arabia, owned by a Saudi prince and built to an unusual elliptical award-winning design. The 99-storey colossus contains a hole that visitors can walk across on the sky-bridge on the highest floor. Besides accommodating modern offices, apartments, the Four Seasons Hotel and a fitness club, the Kingdom Centre also houses a state-of-the-art three-level shopping mall with more than 160 stores, anchored by Saks Fifth Avenue and Debenhams department stores. The centre also boasts dozens of world-class international restaurants.

The National Museum photo

The National Museum

Chief among the multitude of museums in Riyadh, the National Museum is truly a must. Incorporating local art, religion and culture that explore the diverse and intriguing histories of the Arabian kingdoms, the National Museum welcomes many visitors each year. Artefacts such as ancient documents, furniture, weapons and more, dating as far back as the Stone Age, are on display. Unlike most attractions in Riyadh, the museum charges a small entrance fee. Other city museums worth visiting include the King Abdulaziz Military Museum and the Museum of Antiquities and Folklore.

Al Masmak Castle photo

Al Masmak Castle

The clay and mud brick fort of the Masmak Fort is an important landmark and heritage site in the centre of Riyadh. Built around 1865, the site is associated with the foundation of the Saudi Arabian kingdom as the original stronghold of King Mohammed bin Abdullah bin Rasheed. The castle was the setting of the Idn Saud's legendary raid in 1902, where a spear was hurled at the main entrance with such force that the head is still intact in the main arch. Visitors can explore its impressive rooms, pillared mosque, gate, watchtowers and well.

Al Murabba’a Historical Palace photo

Al Murabba’a Historical Palace

The spectacular Murabba Palace sits just outside the original city walls. Built in the early 1900s, the palace originally functioned as the private accommodation for the king of Saudi Arabia. Serving as an institute and library devoted to preserving Arabian history, the palace has been preserved as a living example of the country's royal life in days gone by and is a favourite with history enthusiasts. On the ground floor are the guard's room and storerooms, while upstairs visitors can view the reception salons, political offices and private apartments.

City of old Diriyah photo

City of old Diriyah

The ruins of the historically significant city of Diriyah, standing statuesque and silent in the desert about 12 miles (20km) northwest of Riyadh city centre, make for an interesting excursion. The city, originally the stronghold of the powerful Saud family, was the site of an important Islamic reform movement around 1745, when two influential imams called for the people to return to the true faith and abandon heresy, polytheism and superstition. In its heyday, the city was the biggest in the Arab Peninsula, but was overtaken by Riyadh after being destroyed by the Turks in the early 19th century. The ruins of many of the mud-brick buildings remain for visitors to explore.

Eating Out

Middle Eastern fare might dominate the dining out scene in Riyadh, but there has been an increase in international eateries springing up in recent years, creating even more choice for avid foodies. Now, everything from spicy Indian food to good old American favourites like cheeseburgers and fries are on offer. Head to Tahlia Street for both fine dining and cheap eateries where the bright lights and catchy slogans of fast-food outlets like McDonald's and KFC line the street too. Many travellers will opt to dine at their hotel restaurant where many of the five-star eateries are owned by celebrity chefs and provide a one of a kind dining experience. Travellers should note that these hotel restaurants have done away with segregation between men and women, as well as the family section but they should not be alarmed if they come across this in other restaurants. A service charge is usually included in restaurant bill, but a tip of 10 percent is the norm.

Shopping

You won't find a street in Riyadh that doesn't have a string of shopping malls, boutiques, or markets. One of the biggest and fanciest shopping malls in Riyadh is Al Faisaliah on Olaya Road, which also has a fun park in the basement and is open to families and single women only from Wednesday to Friday. Al Mamlaka, also on Olaya Road, has a third floor Ladies Kingdom reserved exclusively for women. The Kingdom Tower offers great deals on luxury brands like Hugo Boss and Lacoste.

Other popular malls include Sahara Mall on King Abdul Aziz Road, and Granada Mall near the airport. Shopping centres can be confusing to foreign visitors, however, as most have some restrictions on visiting hours for men, women, and families, so it's best to be sure of restrictions before visiting.

There are two enormous sale seasons in Riyadh, taking place at the beginning and in the middle of the year. At these points, the shops in Riyadh offer bargains up to 90 percent off the regular price and the malls are packed with customers. Riyadh also has a few traditional souks, including Souk al-Thumairi, which is most popular with tourists for its wide range of Arabic goods and English-speaking touts. Remember in Riyadh markets, haggling is obligatory.

Shopping in Riyadh is tax-free, so you can find good deals on luxury brands and high-end products. Popular Riyadh souvenirs include Persian rugs, leather goods and handbags, and local jewellery.

Getting Around

Taxis (white in colour) are the best option for travelling around the city and can be booked through hotels or hired directly off the street. Fares are reasonable and the taxis are metered. If the taxi is not metered, the fare can be negotiated and can often be cheaper than using the meter. Try to have your address in Arabic if possible as many taxi drivers do not understand English.

Car hire is also possible, but driving can be a little daunting, despite the deceptively easy-looking wide roads. Directional road signs tend to have English translations but street signs are in Arabic only. Some traffic rules differ from those in the West, and penalties for speeding or reckless driving are severe.

Public transport is available to a limited degree, consisting of minibuses which ply a few routes and usually operate for men only. Buses that do admit women have a screened off area, separating them from the men.

Riyadh Climate and Weather

Conditions in Riyadh are typically dry and hot, but the city does receive about four inches (102mm) of rain a year, most of it falling between January and April. In summer, hot winds can send temperatures soaring up to 113°F (45°C). In winter it can be surprisingly chilly, dropping down to 50°F (10°C), and at night temperatures can plunge below freezing. The best months in Riyadh, when days are pleasantly tolerable and nights are cool, are between October and April.

Saudi Arabia travel info

Electricity

Electrical current is 220 volts, 60Hz. Three-pin, flat-bladed plugs are in use, in addition to round/flat-bladed two-pin plugs, as well as flat-bladed two-pin plugs with a third, round pin for grounding.

Language

Arabic is the official language in Saudi Arabia, but English is widely understood.

Money

The Saudi currency is the Riyal (SAR), divided into 100 halala. Foreign currency can be changed at banks and exchange bureaux. Banking hours are generally Saturday to Wednesday from 8am to 12pm. Some banks also choose to open again later in the afternoon and stay open into the evening, from 5pm to 8pm. All major credit cards are accepted at shops, hotels and restaurants in Saudi Arabia, with ATMs being widely available.

Tipping

Service charge is usually included in bills at hotels. Elsewhere a tip of 10 percent can be offered for services rendered. Taxi drivers can be given 10 percent of the fare.

Health

Anyone arriving in Saudi Arabia from a country infected with yellow fever requires a vaccination certificate for entry. People travelling to perform Hajj and Umrah are required to be inoculated against meningitis before travel and must present a vaccination certificate on arrival. Respiratory infections are common among pilgrims during the Hajj and Ramadan season.

There is a malaria risk in the south and parts of the western region of the country and visitors should take advice on anti-malarial precautions at least four weeks before leaving. Both an outbreak of cerebral malaria and Rift Valley Fever have occurred in Jizan, with Dengue fever also having been reported.

Food poisoning is a risk outside the good hotels and visitors should only drink bottled water. The standard of medical care and facilities in Saudi Arabia is high, but treatment is expensive so travel insurance is strongly advised.

Safety

Safety in Saudi Arabia is a concern to some extent. All travel within 60 miles (100km) of the border with Yemen is not advised due to the clashes along the Saudi-Yemeni border.

Travellers should ensure they have individual security arrangements, remain vigilant and avoid public gatherings. Visitors should be particularly alert in public places frequented by foreigners such as shopping malls, restaurants and hotels and in the desert outside Riyadh.

Pilgrims are increasingly being targeted by pickpockets in Mecca and Medina and are advised to take care of personal possessions. In recent years pilgrims have died due to overcrowding and stampedes at events during Hajj. Religious police patrols rigorously enforce codes of behaviour and dress prescribed by Islamic law and visitors should respect these.

Local customs

Saudi Arabia is an Islamic country, meaning Sharia law is strictly enforced. No alcohol, pork products or religious books and artefacts not related to Islam are permitted in the country. There are no bars in Saudi Arabia, and alcohol is served nowhere to anyone of any religious persuasion.

Dress should be conservative at all times, and women should take particular care not to offend. Visitors are advised to familiarise themselves with behaviour and dress codes before entering the country. Homosexual behaviour and extramarital sexual relations are illegal and can carry the death penalty. It is also illegal to be transgender.

Photography of local people, government buildings, military installations and palaces is not allowed. Religious customs should be respected, particularly during the month of Ramadan when eating, drinking and smoking during daylight hours should be discreet as it is forbidden by the Muslim culture. The right hand should be used for everything, including eating and the giving and receiving of things, as the left is considered unclean. It is illegal to hold two passports, and second passports will be confiscated if discovered by immigration authorities.

Doing business

If you are looking to do business in Saudi Arabia, prepare yourself for a unique experience. The Saudi corporate world is perhaps the most foreign of any of the Gulf nations, and in all likelihood you are going to have to remain flexible and to learn new skills, in order to make a real success of your time in the country. It is vitally important to understand that Saudi society is underpinned by fervent belief in the tenets of Islam.

The business culture of Saudi Arabia is prototypically Arabic, in that a great emphasis is placed on personal relationships between business associates. Saudi businessmen will always prefer to do business with people they are familiar with, or people who they feel they can trust, so it's worth putting in the time and effort to cultivate business relationships. In Saudi Arabia, business meetings will most likely be lengthy and subject to numerous interruptions and personal digressions. You will be judged on your conduct in meetings, so treat them as necessary parts of the relationship-building process.

Despite the heat, business dress in Saudi Arabia is strictly smart, formal and conservative, especially for women, who must take extreme care not to wear anything too revealing. The official language of Saudi Arabia is Arabic, though English is widely spoken and widely understood in the business world. Hours of business are generally from 8am to 12pm, and then 3pm to 6pm, from Sunday to Thursday.

Duty free

Travellers to Saudi Arabia do not have to pay duty on 600 cigarettes or 100 cigars or 500g tobacco, perfume or cultured pearls for personal use, or goods up to the value SAR3,000. Duty is payable on cameras and other electronic goods, and refunds on these are available if the articles are re-exported within 90 days.

Strictly prohibited are pork, narcotics, alcoholic drinks, anti-Islamic goods and publications, gambling devices, weapons and ammunition, explosives, fireworks, unlabelled medication, goods which prominently display flags of another country, goods bearing names and pictures of celebrities, wild animal hides, counterfeit money. Other prohibited items include formula milk, natural sand, and natural pearls.

Communications

The international dialling code for Saudi Arabia is +966. Mobile telephone coverage is extensive, even in remote parts of the country. Internet facilities are available in most towns and cities.

Passport & Visa

All visitors require a visa to enter Saudi Arabia, and visas are only granted to those with sponsorship in the country. Tourist visas are hard to get, granted only to selected groups on a limited basis. Everyone who enters the Kingdom should have a valid passport with at least six months validity in addition to the appropriate visa and a return ticket, with all necessary documents. Muslim women entering the Kingdom alone must be met by a sponsor or male relative and have confirmed accommodation for the duration of their stay. Entry may be refused to any visitor arriving in an intoxicated state, men wearing shorts, women in tight clothing or with legs and arms exposed, and to couples displaying affection in public. There are special requirements for pilgrims undertaking the Hajj or visiting holy sites. It is strongly recommended not to hold passports containing any Israeli visa or stamp when entering or transiting Saudi Arabia as entry may be refused.

Entry requirements

US citizens require a passport and visa to enter Saudi Arabia, and must be valid for the duration of their stay.

British passport holders require a passport that is valid for a minimum of six months from the date of arrival, and a visa to enter Saudi Arabia.

Canadians require a passport that is valid for a minimum of six months from the date of arrival, and a visa to enter Saudi Arabia.

Australians require a passport that is valid for a minimum of six months from the date of arrival, and a visa to enter Saudi Arabia.

South Africans require a passport that is valid for a minimum of six months from the date of arrival, and a visa to enter Saudi Arabia.

Irish passport holders require a passport that is valid for a minimum of six months from the date of arrival, and a visa to enter Saudi Arabia.

New Zealanders require a passport that is valid for a minimum of six months from the date of arrival, and a visa to enter Saudi Arabia.

Useful contacts

The Supreme Commission for Tourism, Riyadh: +966 (0)1 480 8855 or www.scta.gov.sa.

Emergencies: 999 (Police), 997 (Ambulance), 998 (Fire).

Embassies / consulates in other countries

Saudi Arabian Embassy, Washington DC, United States: +1 202 342 3800.

Saudi Arabian Embassy, London, United Kingdom (also responsible for Ireland): +44 (0)20 7917 3000.

Saudi Arabian Embassy, Ottawa, Canada: +1 613 237 4100.

Saudi Arabian Embassy, Canberra, Australia (also responsible for New Zealand): +61 (0)2 6250 7000.

Saudi Arabian Embassy, Pretoria, South Africa +27 (0)12 362 4230.

Embassies / consulates in Saudi Arabia

United States Embassy, Riyadh: +966 (0)1 488 3800.

British Embassy, Riyadh: +966 (0)11 481 9100.

Canadian Embassy, Riyadh: +966 (0)11 488 2288.

Australian Embassy, Riyadh: +966 (0)1 488 7788.

South African Embassy, Riyadh: + 966 (0)1 422 9716.

Irish Embassy, Riyadh: +966 (0)1 488 2300.

New Zealand Embassy, Riyadh: +966 (0)1 488 7988.