San Cristobal de las Casas Travel Guide

Nestled in a valley and surrounded by forests and hills, the colonial village of San Cristobal de las Casas is the jewel in the centre of the Chiapas highlands. It's close to a number of traditional Mayan villages and still retains a palpable indigenous soul, which coexists harmoniously with its colonial charm.

The town was originally established as a Spanish stronghold against the surrounding indigenous communities. Today, it's a picturesque place of cobbled lanes and long rambling streets that undulate with the hilly terrain, squat whitewashed houses with red tiled roofs, flower-filled patios, wrought iron balconies, shady plazas, ornate facades and lavish churches. The main plaza was the Spanish centre of town and is the best place to sit and watch life pass by. The cathedral dominates the northern side and its steps are always busy with playful children, arriving and departing worshippers and vendors. North of the plaza, the daily market is a fascinating bustle of indigenous life and a trading space for local produce and household goods.

The streets and plazas are filled with the vibrancy of people from the surrounding villages who give the town its character and dominate its trade. The region is known for its colourful handicrafts, traditional markets and fascinating local fiestas, legends and mystical ceremonies that are influenced by the ancient Mayan traditions. Each barrio or neighbourhood of the city has a distinctive identity, rooted in the old custom of trade, with candle making, carpentry or blacksmith shops the predominant feature in each.

San Cristobal is an invigorating yet peaceful town, a good base from which to enjoy the graceful colonial atmosphere and to explore the highland region and the outlying Indian villages. The grand Mayan site at Palenque can be visited from here, as well as Agua Azul, a dazzling series of waterfalls and turquoise pools that are one of Mexico's natural wonders.

Things to do in San Cristobal de las Casas

San Cristobal de las Casas is a rich cultural hub that has many intriguing attractions. The Na Bolom Cultural Centre is a wonderful place to learn a bit about the Lacandon people in a colourful and charming compound full of interesting artefacts and personal effects. The Museo de Trajes Regionales, a museum of Mayan textiles, is also a fantastic experience. The highland villages of San Juan Chamula and Zinacantan, home to the Tzotzil people who are descendants of the ancient Mayans, are nearby, but travellers should be very respectful and it's best to go with a local guide.

Other attractions worth seeking out in San Cristobal de las Casas include the Orquideas Moxviquil, a botanical garden sheltering more than 450 indigenous plant species, including some stunning and delicate specimens; as well as the fascinating Museo del Ambar (Amber Museum). Santo Domingo is the town's most beautiful church and although it's a little rundown, it's still definitely worth a visit. The main archaeological site in the area is the impressive ancient Mayan site of Palenque, the remains of a city dating back to the 7th century which many consider the most remarkable ancient Mayan site.

Santo Domingo photo

Santo Domingo

Blessed with an intricately carved pink Baroque facade that is especially impressive when lit up at night, Santo Domingo is the most beautiful of San Cristóbal's churches. The interior is richly decorated, with the ornate pulpit and golden altarpieces being the main focus of this 16th-century architectural monument. Visitors are welcome at services but should prepare to be scolded by local worshippers if they don't show proper respect. The area in front and around the church is filled each day with craft stalls and village traders, and is a great place to find souvenirs such as woven blankets, shawls and amber jewellery.

San Juan Chamula and Zinacantan villages photo

San Juan Chamula and Zinacantan villages

These two highland villages are the home of the Tzotzil people, descendants of the ancient Mayans and some of Mexico's most traditional indigenous communities. San Juan Chamula is a centre for religious festivals. The main attraction is the church where, every Sunday, men in loose homespun white woollen ponchos and women in embroidered finery congregate for the weekly market. The typical dress of the Zinacantan villagers is a red and white striped poncho decorated with tassels and a flat, round hat decorated with ribbons. The countryside is dotted with crosses and offerings dedicated to their ancestor gods or the Earth Lord. Visitors should respect the local traditions and customs; the best way to visit is with a local guide.

Palenque photo

Palenque

The setting for this spectacular ancient Mayan city is splendid, a hauntingly beautiful site engulfed in the endless tropical jungle that bristles with the shrieks of insects. The architecture is fantastic and, for many, Palenque is the most remarkable of the major Mayan sites. Early morning is the best time to capture the setting at its most photogenic, when swirling vapours encircle the temples and the jungle. The highlight is the tallest and most important of Palenque's buildings, the magnificent Temple of Inscriptions. Constructed on eight levels, the rear interior wall is decorated with panels of Mayan hieroglyphic inscriptions describing the history of Palenque and the temple. There is a museum near the entrance of the site.

Mexico travel info

Electricity

The electrical current is 110 to 120 volts, 60Hz. Two-pin flat blade attachment plugs are standard.

Language

Spanish is the official language in Mexico. Some English is spoken in tourist regions.

Money

The local currency is the Mexican peso (MXN), which is divided into 100 centavos. Most international hotels and tourist facilities accept credit and debit cards, though visitors should take care as credit card fraud occurs. ATMs are available in most cities and towns, and are the most convenient way to get money. However, for safety reasons they should only be used during business hours and vigilance is advised. Travellers should carry cash if they're visiting rural areas. US dollars are widely accepted in holiday resort areas; foreign currency can be exchanged at one of many casas de cambio (exchange houses), which have longer hours and offer a quicker service than the banks.

Tipping

Waiters and bar staff should be tipped 10 to 15 percent if a service charge hasn't already been added to the bill. Tips of 15 to 20 percent are the norm at international resorts, including those in Los Cabos.

Health

Malaria and dengue fever occur in some rural areas but not on the Pacific and Gulf coasts; Zika is still a risk in Mexico. Travellers should consider a rabies vaccination as dogs and some wildlife such as bats carry the disease. It's best to follow sensible precautions regarding food and water, such as only eating foods that are cooked and served hot, and sticking to bottled water.

Medical facilities in major cities may be good, but are usually very limited or unavailable in rural areas. Comprehensive travel insurance is recommended. As medicines may be in short supply, travellers should consider taking prescription medications in their original packaging, accompanied by a signed and dated letter from a doctor detailing what the medications are and why they are needed.

Safety

Travellers should be cautious in big cities such as Mexico City, where crime can pose a risk for foreigners. In particular, women on their own should be vigilant and take care of their belongings, especially on public transport. It's best to only use authorised taxi services and to avoid bus travel at night.

Visitors are advised to be wary of people presenting themselves as police officers who attempt to fine or arrest them for no apparent reason, as these situations can lead to theft or assault. If in doubt, travellers should ask for identification.

Most of the violence related to drug cartel wars in Mexico is concentrated along the border between Mexico and the United States, with tourist zones generally unaffected. Hurricanes may affect the coastal areas between June and November.

Local customs

Mexicans are not impatient and do not appreciate impatience in others, so travellers should expect opening hours and public transport times to be flexible and laid back. Locals are also friendly and hospitable people who greatly appreciate courteous behaviour. Travellers should note that it's common for Mexicans to communicate closer than one arm's length from each other, and that it's not an attempt to be forward.

Doing business

Though many Mexican businessmen speak perfect English, Spanish is the official language of business in the country, so learning a few choice words and phrases will go a long way toward developing a relationship with local associates. Business etiquette in Mexico is marked by a combination of formality and friendliness.

It's very rare to hear the word 'no' being used in a direct or confrontational way (bald refusals are seen as rude), and it's best to use titles ('señhor' and 'señhora') until specifically instructed not to. However, foreigners should not shrink away from engaging in personal discussions with their Mexican colleagues. Business meetings must be scheduled in advance, and then confirmed a few days before they are due to take place.

The dress code for the Mexican business world is smart and formal; business hours are generally from 9am to 6pm, Monday to Friday, with a two or three-hour siesta in the early afternoon.

Duty free

Travellers to Mexico who are over 18 years of age do not have to pay duty on 200 cigarettes or 25 cigars or 200g tobacco; 3 litres spirits or 6 litres wine. Other goods to the value of US$500 for those arriving by air, or US$300 for those arriving by land are premitted without incurring duty fees. Prohibited goods include narcotics, firearms and used clothing that is not part of a traveller's personal luggage. The export of archaeological artefacts is strictly forbidden.

Communications

The international access code for Mexico is +52. Travellers can purchase local prepaid SIM cards for unlocked phones or use eSIMs if their cellular providers support it on their networks. Hotels, cafes and restaurants offering free WiFi are widely available.

Passport & Visa

All foreign passengers to Mexico must hold a Mexico Visitor's Permit (FMM), which is issued free of charge, and obtainable from airlines, Mexican Consulates, Mexican international airports, and border crossing points. As part of the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI), all travellers transiting through the United States are required to present a passport or other valid travel documents to enter or re-enter the United States. Foreign passengers to Mexico should ensure that their passports and other travel documents are in good condition, as even slightly torn passports will not be accepted. It is highly recommended that travellers' passports have at least six months' validity remaining after the intended date of departure from their travel destination. Immigration officials often apply different rules to those stated by travel agents and official sources.

Entry requirements

US citizens must have a passport that is valid at the time of entry. A visa is not required for stays of up to 180 days but travellers need to complete an immigration form and have this with them when they enter and leave Mexico.

British citizens must have a passport that is valid for the expected duration of their stay in Mexico. A visa is not required for stays of up to 180 days but travellers need to complete an immigration form and have this with them when they enter and leave Mexico.

Canadian citizens must have a passport that is valid for the expected duration of their stay in Mexico. A visa is not required for stays of up to 180 days but travellers need to complete an immigration form and have this with them when they enter and leave Mexico.

Australian US must have a passport that is valid for the expected duration of their stay in Mexico. A visa is not required for stays of up to 180 days but travellers need to complete an immigration form and have this with them when they enter and leave Mexico.

South African citizens must have a passport that is valid upon their arrival in Mexico. A visa is required. Passengers with a valid visa issued by Canada, Japan, USA, United Kingdom or a Schengen Member State are visa exempt for a maximum stay of 180 days.

Irish citizens must have a passport that is valid for the expected duration of their stay in Mexico. A visa is not required for stays of up to 180 days but travellers need to complete an immigration form and have this with them when they enter and leave Mexico.

New Zealand citizens must have a passport that is valid for the expected duration of their stay in Mexico. A visa is not required for stays of up to 180 days but travellers need to complete an immigration form and have this with them when they enter and leave Mexico.

Useful contacts

Mexico Tourism Board: +52 55 5278 4200 or www.visitmexico.com

911 (General Emergency Hotline)

Embassies / consulates in other countries

Mexican Embassy, Washington DC, United States: +1 202 728 1600.

Mexican Embassy, London, United Kingdom: +44 20 7499 8586.

Mexican Embassy, Ottawa, Canada: +1 613 233 8988.

Mexican Embassy, Canberra, Australia: +61 2 6273 3963.

Mexican Embassy, Pretoria, South Africa: +27 12 460 1004.

Mexican Embassy, Dublin, Ireland: +353 1 667 3105.

Mexican Embassy, Wellington, New Zealand: +64 4 472 0555.

Embassies / consulates in Mexico

United States Embassy, Mexico City: +52 55 5080 2000.

British Embassy, Mexico City: +52 55 1670 3200.

Canadian Embassy, Mexico City: +52 55 5724 7900.

Australian Embassy, Mexico City: +52 55 1101 2200.

South African Embassy, Mexico City: +52 55 1100 4970.

Irish Embassy, Mexico City: +52 55 5520 5803.

New Zealand Embassy, Mexico City: +52 55 5283 9460.